Macaroni and cheese is one of those odd dishes which are something of a blank canvas for the imagination. It can be as simple and as bland as you like (for many, the absolute epitome of comfort eating), or it can be tweaked for luxury and impact. (Not ‘pimped’, because you’re not some fucking village idiot.) You might find it with bacon or truffle, breadcrumbs or lobster, with everyday cheddar or with rare artisan cheeses.
It’s what you want it to be, more than just about any dish that comes to mind. And Return of the Mac know this, which is why their eye-catching van (shortlisted for Britain’s best-looking stall by the Street Food Awards) and distinctive branding makes such an impact. Having caught the melted cheese bug in Melbourne, David started cooking for colleagues and hasn’t looked back, flinging all sorts of inspiration into his dishes; think of the heat of beef chilli against the texture of broken nachos, or pancetta and blue cheese, or the peri peri one-two of spicy cheese and spicy chicken… this is not comforting blandness, but something to pique your interest and have you coming back for more.